What is the Asscher cut diamond and what should buyers know about it?

The Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with deeply trimmed corners, producing an octagonal outline and a concentric hall-of-mirrors optical effect through its 58 larger-than-average facets arranged in precise parallel rows. First developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, whose firm later cut the 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond, the design creates high contrast between light and dark planes rather than the scattered brilliance of a round or cushion cut. The high crown draws the eye into the stone's depth rather than across its surface, giving the cut its distinctly architectural character. Because the open facet structure emphasises transparency over light scatter, clarity carries more visual weight here than in brilliant cuts: IGI recommends VS2 or better, as inclusions are more visible within the stepped geometry than they would be in a brilliant-cut stone. An IGI-certified lab-grown Asscher in VS1 clarity or above will show its facet geometry cleanly and without distraction. For decades the style remained scarce, associated mainly with Art Deco estate pieces, and it still suits buyers who prefer geometric, structure-led jewellery over sparkle-maximized designs. If you are drawn to a cut that reads as graphic and deliberate rather than conventional, the Asscher is a precise, considered choice.