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What is the girdle of a diamond, and why does it matter?

The girdle is the narrow band running around a diamond's widest point, separating the upper crown from the lower pavilion. IGI grading reports describe girdle thickness on an eight-point scale ranging from Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick, with Thin to Slightly Thick considered the functional sweet spot for round stones. A girdle outside this range creates real problems: an Extremely Thin girdle chips under setting pressure, while an Extremely Thick one adds dead weight without increasing the face-up diameter, reducing the visual return on your carat spend. Fancy shapes follow different rules, a pear, marquise, or heart is often cut with a thicker girdle specifically to protect its vulnerable pointed or curved edges from damage, so the same thickness grade that would be excessive on a round may be entirely appropriate on a fancy cut. Girdle finish is a separate consideration: the surface can be smooth, polished, or faceted, but the visual difference between these options is undetectable without magnification and has no bearing on the IGI grade. For lab-grown diamonds set in prong or bezel settings, girdle consistency around the full circumference matters as much as the thickness grade itself, since an uneven girdle complicates the setter's work and can affect how securely the stone sits. When reviewing an IGI certificate, check the girdle entry under the proportions section before comparing two stones of identical carat weight.

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